The One Thing Every Snorkeler Overlooks About Their Gear

I’ll be honest: for the first few years I spent snorkeling, I treated my gear like a rented beach umbrella. Rinse it? Sure, if I remembered. Dry it properly? Only if the sun did the work for me. I’d toss my Seaview 180 mask into the bottom of a damp gear bag, zip it up, and forget about it until the next trip. A few months in, the silicone skirt started feeling stiff. The purge valve didn’t snap back the way it used to. And that smell—that stale, sour smell—had taken up permanent residence.

I didn’t think much of it until I started reading the research coming out of Hawai‘i on snorkel safety. One report from the Snorkel Safety Study examined how different snorkel designs affect breathing resistance. The findings were sobering: some masks and snorkels, especially after wear and tear, can create enough inhalation resistance to contribute to a condition called Snorkel-Induced Rapid Onset Pulmonary Edema, or SI-ROPE. That’s a mouthful, but what it boils down to is this—fluid can build up in your lungs if you’re working too hard to pull air through a resistant snorkel.

Now, I’m not a doctor, and I won’t pretend to be one. But I am someone who spends a lot of time in the water, and I started connecting dots. A warped skirt from being stored face-down. A valve that doesn’t seat properly because it dried with salt crusted inside. A tube with mineral deposits narrowing the airway. These aren’t just annoyances—they’re potential safety issues. The way we dry and store our gear is part of how well it performs, breath by breath.

Why caring for your gear is also caring for the ocean

There’s another angle I didn’t expect to care about until I started paying attention: waste. Every time I replace a mask or fins that could have lasted twice as long, I’m adding to the pile of petroleum-based products that eventually break down into microplastics. Those microplastics end up in the same water I love to swim in. The State of Hawai‘i Department of Health data shows that snorkeling is the most common activity among visitor drownings, but it’s also one of the most gear-intensive. More gear means more potential waste.

I’m not here to preach. I’m just saying that when I started treating my gear like something worth keeping—rather than something to replace every season—I felt better about my time in the water. And my gear actually started working better, too.

What I’ve learned about drying gear the right way

After plenty of trial and error (and a few ruined wetsuits), here’s what I’ve settled on. Think of it as drying your gear like a tidal pool organism handles the ebb and flow—let gravity and airflow do the heavy lifting.

Hang it right

  • Masks: Hang them by the head strap, not the skirt. Let the skirt pocket drain completely. A slight angle—maybe 15 degrees off vertical—helps water run out.
  • Snorkels: Hang tube-end down so water can’t pool in the barrel. This also helps keep the purge valve drying open.
  • Fins: Hang upside down by the foot pocket. That way water doesn’t collect in the heel area, which is a prime spot for mildew.
  • Wetsuits and rash guards: Use wide padded hangers. Wire hangers create permanent creases in neoprene that never come out.

Avoid heat and direct sun

I learned this one the hard way. Leaving a mask on a hot boat deck for an hour can warp the skirt. Silicone and polycarbonate don’t like UV either. A shaded, breezy spot with a small fan on low is better than any sunny window ledge.

Separate everything

When silicone touches silicone for long periods—especially when damp—they can stick together or degrade each other’s surfaces. Give each piece its own hook or rack arm. It doesn’t take much space, and it makes a big difference.

Three setups for different styles of snorkeler

  1. The minimalist: Two shower hooks on a towel rack and a mesh bag for small items. That’s it. Under ten bucks if you already have the rack.
  2. The weekend warrior: A wall-mounted bamboo rack with separate positions for mask, snorkel, fins, and wetsuit. Add a drip tray. About forty to sixty dollars in materials.
  3. The full-family locker: Custom shelving with PVC pipe drainage channels, individual mesh bags for masks, and a rolling rack for wetsuits. Add a timer-controlled fan. Up to two hundred dollars, but it pays for itself in gear lifespan.

One last thought

I don’t expect everyone to build a dedicated drying station. But I do think it’s worth pausing the next time you rinse your gear after a day on the water. That few extra minutes you spend hanging it right, keeping it out of the sun, and letting it breathe—that’s not just maintenance. It’s a small act of respect for the equipment that lets you explore the places you love. And maybe, just maybe, it keeps a little more plastic out of the ocean, too.

What’s your setup like? I’m always curious how other water lovers handle this stuff. Drop me a note if you’ve got a trick I haven’t tried.